Mobile Bay / November 2011 / Four Star Restaurants

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Four Star Restaurants

A quartet of dining establishments is reaping rave reviews on both shores.

True Calling

Wesley True is known for his upscale, chic cuisine. Now he is making his mark in casual cooking as well with his latest venture, True Midtown Kitchen. The new restaurant is in the lofty, slightly funky Dauphin Street space that formerly housed The Bakery Café. “People really dine in Midtown and are very adventurous,” he says about the bustling location. “That makes me feel what I am doing is worth it.”

He describes the eatery’s offerings as “Southern classic, with a Southern spin on some international dishes.” Smoked ribs, fried catfish and chicken and dumplings (whimsically dubbed “kitchen and dumplings”) are some of the standout dishes. For a touch of European flair, a delectable charcuterie plate on the lunch and dinner menus features local and house-made items such as cheese and pâté.      

True takes pride in the restaurant’s many house-made ingredients and condiments, including the sweet potato habanero hot sauce on the tables, the tangy tartar sauce served alongside the catfish, and the tonic water in the lovely specialty gin and tonic. “We are also creating other things in-house, like vermouth, bitters and different syrups — just putting soul in our food and drinks,” True says. For dessert, try the memorable cheesecake or chocolate pie. Side notes: Al fresco dining is available on the patio, and brunch is served on Sundays.

On the Menu

BBQ Spare Ribs
These gargantuan, brined, dry-rubbed smoked ribs come three to a small plate, or a heaping half rack as an entree. They are tender and succulent with a divinely spicy, sugary crystalline crust and a side of snappy sauce.

Pulled Pork Dog
A toasted bun topped with slightly sweet-sauced pulled pork and crowned with creamy good coleslaw creates a messy but marvelous combo of taste and texture.

Kitchen and Dumplings
Plump pieces of smoked, fried chicken, braised chicken, and fried, crisp dumpling croutons are all bathed in a light savory sauce laced with ribbons of fresh basil and Pecorino Romano cheese.

True Midtown Kitchen • 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. M - Su. (Saturday is a limited menu. Open for Sunday brunch.); 5 p.m. - 9 p.m. M - Th (Monday is a limited menu.); 5 p.m. - 10 p.m. F/Sa. 1104 Dauphin St. 434-2002. kitchen.truedine.com

Thyme to Chew

Tucked along Scenic Highway 98 in Fairhope, Thyme by the Bay is a tiny restaurant with a big waterfront view. The cozy, friendly interior seats about 20, and the umbrella-lined deck seats 24. A duo of chefs, Adrian Yots and his wife, Rachael, own the establishment. “We opened not only to push the boundaries of flavors along the Eastern Shore, but also so we could work together,” Adrian says.  

The talented twosome specializes in what they call “worldly cuisine using fresh, local ingredients.” They strongly embrace the farm-to-table concept of cooking. Some produce comes from their Robertsdale farm. “We grow heirloom arugula, zucchini, squash, carrots and beets for the restaurant,” Adrian says. “We try to prepare the freshest product in unique, interesting ways.”

Because they believe in using local and seasonal ingredients, they change the menu constantly. The Thyme burger, however, is a staple that has reaped rave reviews. The Asian chicken salad, with crispy wontons, and peanut dressing is another popular standard. Rachael is responsible for delicious, daily handmade pastas. The carefully selected cheeses are exceptional, and there is a nice selection of wine and beer. Desserts change daily. A recent pick: truffle-like chocolate custard with berry-laced whipped cream, caramel sauce and pomegranate reduction.

On the Menu

Grilled Peach Salad
Arugula, grilled slices of peach, and rectangles of SeaHive cheese (a specialty cheese from Utah that has been rubbed in honey and sea salt) are served with a lively peach vinaigrette and a scattering of pecans.

Spinach and Ricotta Agnolotti
Deliciously al dente pillows of pasta are filled with ricotta. The light, slightly sweet, tomato sauce has peas, spinach, squash and sizable shavings of Parmesan cheese.

Thyme Burger 
Marinated filet and brisket are fashioned into an incredible hand-ground burger  and served on a brioche. The toppings: tangy herbed goat cheese, sautéed mushrooms, arugula and truffle aioli.  Hand-cut sweet potato fries are alongside. 

Thyme by the Bay • 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. (lunch), 5:30 p.m. - 9 p.m. (dinner) T - Sa; 10:30 a.m. - 3 p.m. (brunch) Su (first of the month only). 151 S. Mobile St. Fairhope. 990-5635.

Sushi Shoppin'

When Lance Hallmark and his fiancée, Gerri Mach, opened their new sushi bar last November, they wanted to try something different. So, they opted for a hip rock music theme instead of the expected Asian decor. “We keep the atmosphere light and fun. The background music is always ’80s sing-along rock that everybody loves,” Hallmark says of Rock ’n’ Roll Sushi. The venue has a full bar, big screen TVs and, with its red and black color scheme, a bit of an edgy nightclub feel. The walls are dotted with instruments, band memorabilia and images of rock icons. Menus are custom made from album covers.

The offerings include the classics, from California and Rainbow rolls to edamame and seaweed salad. Then, there is a whole host of innovative specialty “headliner” rolls named for famous bands and rock stars — from Motley Crue and Metallica to Madonna and Elvis. Hallmark says the Michael Jackson roll is the biggest seller – a tempura shrimp and cream cheese roll fried up and topped with baked shrimp and scallop, crabmeat, spicy mayo, sweet teriyaki sauce and crunchy flakes. All the sauces are made in-house and Hallmark says they buy all of their food locally “to ensure we have the freshest product out there.”

Chef Van Nguyen is highly skilled at creating new and interesting plate presentations, and he is constantly  experimenting with fresh, lively flavor combinations. “He has more than 12 years of sushi experience from all over the nation,” Hallmark says. “His creativity is unmatched, and he is all about pushing the envelope and creating new rolls that keep the customers coming back for more.” 

On the Menu

Crab Salad Stuffed Orange
A lively, citrus-tinged salad of diced strawberries, avocado and crab is cleverly presented inside an orange fashioned to look like a pumpkin.

Titanic Roll
A tasty combo of tempura shrimp, cream cheese and cucumber is topped with broiled shrimp, avocado slices and crunchy tempura flakes all glazed with special sauce.

Good Fortunes
Two scoops of vanilla ice cream drizzled with caramel and chocolate sauces, sprinkled with fortune cookie crumbles and lightly dusted with powdered sugar, come complete with a fortune tucked on top like a flag.

Rock ’n’ Roll Sushi • 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. M - Sa; Noon - 6 p.m. Su.  Bel Air Mall (Main Entrance). 287-0445. rockandrollsushibar.com

In the Italian Zone

Pinzone’s Italian Downtown serves up a little taste of Italy in a brand new building with an old European feel in the heart of Fairhope. “From the Roman columns to the Tuscan tile work, there are many elements of its design that represent the various regions. It had a direct influence on our menu,” says Scott Dumas, the chef and co-owner. “Italy has thousands of years of diverse culinary history that we can embrace. We try to honor that history with our cuisine.” The menu marries old-school Southern Italian dishes with more nouveau Northern Italian menu items to achieve what Dumas refers to as “honest, authentic Italian comfort food.”

Dumas owns the establishment with Michael Pinzone, whose father-in-law was the man behind locally loved Papa’s Pizza. As a testament to “Papa,” his portrait hangs in Pinzone’s, and pizza plays a prominent part on the menu. There are several popular specialty pies, or you can create your own. Lasagna and baked rigatoni are traditional items, while Dumas’ tasty bruschetta and flatbread appetizers add flair and creative flavor.

There is an intriguing, well-thought-out wine list, and servers are delighted to help you pair them with the fare. Pinzone’s also hosts a wine dinner each month. “It is an evening dedicated to the wonderful marriage of wine and food. We celebrate by choosing a wine first, and then we build a particular course off of it. We have been overwhelmed with the positive response from our guests,” says Dumas. For dessert, the menu staples include cannoli, chocolate gelato and peach tiramisu. Al fresco dining is available on the beautiful loggia that wraps around the side of the building.

On the Menu

Pear and Gorgonzola Flatbread
The crisp, chewy flatbread is topped with slices of sweet pear, salty Gorgonzola and golden, bubbly mozzarella cheese, creating a divine molten medley of sweet and savory.

Insalata Di Pomodoro
This salad is a meal: Kalamata olives, capers, ribbons of purple onion, tomatoes, fresh basil and greens crowned with fresh mozzarella.

Eggplant
A thick, tasty trio of tender eggplant slices, tomato and zucchini is immersed in a marinara sauce and a generous amount of melted feta and mozzarella cheese.

Pinzone’s Italian Downtown 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. (lunch), 5 p.m. - 9 p.m. (dinner) M - Th; 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. (lunch), 5 p.m. - 10 p.m. (dinner) F/Sa. 312 Fairhope Ave. 990-5535.