The county famous for blue sky and white sand now has bragging rights to red sauce. Here's where to find some all-American hot spots in the charcoal field. MOE'S ORIGINAL BAR B QUE Let's start in Daphne where Moe's Original Bar B Que cooks pork, for sandwiches and plates, no less than 20 hours. The same care goes into their chicken and ribs. "We don't do fast food. We do soul food," says owner Mark White. "Don't ask us for French fries," he adds. "Grilling barbecue all day to perfection deserves more than a flash fried potato accompaniment. That's almost an insult." Instead, try their sweet potato casserole, greens and other "real food." Daphne: 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. T - Sa; bar open late. 6423 Bayfront Park Drive. Daphne. 625-7427. Orange Beach: 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. M - Sa. 25603 Perdido Beach Blvd. Orange Beach. 981-7427. moesoriginalbbq.com ORIGINAL BEN'S JR. Leaving Daphne, take U.S. Highway 98 East to Fairhope. Stop at one of the oldest names in Alabama barbecue - Original Ben's Jr. "We were on the Causeway for 30 years before Hurricane Frederic nailed us," says owner Bubba Lee. "Our restaurant reopened in Fairhope about 23 years ago." Lee fires up the grill every morning about 6 a.m. to get ready for lunch. They serve all the standards, including about 300 pounds of pulled pork a week. Any more pork requires a stimulus package. 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. M - Sa. 552 N. Section St. Fairhope. 928-1211. WILLIE'S SMOKIN' RIBS AT THE BISCUIT KING CAFE Back on U.S. Highway 98, head to Barnwell, off County Road 24. It's not every day that you get barbecue like Willie's Smokin' Ribs. In fact, they're only available on Thursday and Saturday afternoons and on Fridays. Fans don't mind waiting for the rare treat of Willie Foster's slow-cooked pork spareribs, pulled pork, brisket or chicken. His barbecue and barbecue-stuffed potatoes are becoming almost as famous as his Ugly Biscuits. 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. Th, Sa. 11 a.m. - 8 p.m. F. regular Biscuit King Cafe 5 a.m. - 2 p.m. Daily. 9555 County Road 24. Fairhope. 928-2424. LA BBQ & COMPANY From the Eastern Shore, the next stop on the pig-out is LA BBQ & Company. First of all, anytime the word "slab" is associated with "food," it is a good thing. LA BBQ sells 200 slabs a week, except on the Fourth of July when they sell about 250 slabs that day. Anyone who has tried this at home knows rib cooking is an art. "It takes a long time," says Jeff Frazier, the restaurant's owner. "I slow cook it about four to five hours over charcoal and wood." Homemade sauces range from sweet and mild to a spicy little hot number called "Fire in the Hole." It is not for amateurs. Frazier's potato salad is also legendary. 10:30 a.m. - 8 p.m. M - Sa. 603 State Highway 59 N. Summerdale. 947-8722. labbq.com HICKORY HOUSE BBQ Follow the trail of smoke along state Highway 59 to Robertsdale. "Hub City" is a town where everybody knows everybody. And their second home is the Hickory House. It is a house divided on what tastes best. Tourists go for traditional fare: chicken and ribs. Locals love the brisket. "It's really good," says owner Darlene Vice. "We slow cook it with a special rub." Don't ask what that rub is. The question rubs Vice the wrong way. "We can't tell you." They can say that Hickory House BBQ has happily accommodated Robertsdale and company for more than five years. 11 a.m. - 8 p.m. M - Su. 22951 State Highway 59. Robertsdale. 947-8720. DOWN SOUTH BBQ On the road again and another destination down state Highway 59. This time we turn off "barbecue boulevard" to County Road 10, home of the restaurant that beat Hurricane Katrina. Kenny and Jayne Williams opened Down South BBQ on August 30, 2005 - the day after the infamous storm. But the power outages they experienced turned out to be no match for good barbecue. Down South cooks their meats exclusively with wood. Who needs electricity? "Our two grills run almost 24 hours day," notes Kenny. "We continuously fuel them with pecan wood." Ribs are the biggest seller, but don't leave Foley without trying the pecan wood-smoked chicken, sausage and pork. 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. T - F; 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Sa. 19891 County Road 10. Foley. 955-6622. downsouthbbq.com RAFTERS RESTAURANT AND SPORTS BAR The race for ribs and kickin' for chicken ends where the land does, Orange Beach. Blake and Ranee Steele are co-owners of Rafters Restaurant and Sports Bar. Their nicknames should be "Tempered Steele" because Hurricane Ivan destroyed their original beloved Rafters - a Gulf Shores beach shack - in 2004. But, you can't keep good barbecue down. They started over in Orange Beach. "Over the years, we have tweaked our barbecue," says Ranee. "Today, I believe our in-house sauces, rubs and quality meats are as good as, or better, than anybody's." 11 a.m. - midnight. M - Su. 4725 Main St. Orange Beach. 224-6900. rafterssportsbar.com What a sweet gig this has been, following a Baldwin County barbecue trail and gnawing on smoky bones! Next time, I won't wear a white shirt.