It's that time of year again - fluff the soil, pull the weeds, and give the gift of life to something edible, fresh and nurturing! Get those nails dirty and strengthen the ole back. Unlike the green thumb with which so many are blessed, my thumb usually turns red from thorns and stickers. My plants shrivel and die, or bugs eat the crop before it's plucked. But, I'm now told, there are compelling reasons to learn how to grow your own food. Even though I am far from a master gardener, I want to do this. Back during World War I and World War II, victory gardens were abundant. They were born out of necessity, during hard times. Sound a little familiar? The gardens for defense were made up of vegetables and fruits planted at private residences. Citizen gardeners reduced pressure on the food supply needed for the war effort. The gardens were also considered a morale booster. I think the U.S. could use a little of that now. Today, many Americans are also concerned about global warming, including the fossil fuels expended to trek produce all over the country. And, need I mention the economy? Food prices have skyrocketed. Now, my husband has wanted just-picked, homegrown tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplants for years. I was the holdout. My incompetency, and the cringe factor, are no longer excuses. It is time to dig in. Jimmy Lowe's might just have to miss this green gal's shopping cart this summer. CLIMACTIC DECISIONS First off, understanding the climate of our geographic region is critical. This area is a cross between zones eight and nine. (I assume it's changing, too, as global warming continues.) Growing conditions in our zones--a combination of high temperatures and high humidity-are a challenge. If summer days don't fry the crops, then they might steam boil overnight. Regardless, read the directions on your seed packages to know best when to plant. The wisest tip is to wait until after the last frost. If the longer days get you all wound up and overzealous, then start the seeds inside. I assume, if you're reading advice from me, you don't have a greenhouse. That's okay. Try an egg carton in a sunny kitchen window. If you really want to gamble and sow early outside, start with hardy crops like broad beans or early peas. But, be prepared, however, to cover them up if we get one of those arctic blasts that occur in spring. It's like having to wear a coat over your new Easter dress, disappointing but necessary. Here's another helpful suggestion for novices: Perhaps you should start with smaller plants from the local nursery. This may be easier than sowing seeds. WHERE TO GROW By now, I'm sure you're thinking of other reasons not to "do-it-yourself." You tell yourself, I don't have the space. I'm certainly not up for the half-acre garden myself. There are many little places to plant: a tub on the patio, a hanging basket of tiny tomatoes, flowerbed border of sweet peppers, or an EarthBox. Now there's the ticket- an EarthBox! Why couldn't I have been the genius who came up with that one? This box is a proven garden system that controls soil conditions, eliminates guesswork, doubles the yield, and is virtually effortless. There are even instructions on line to build your own. Jumping on the space bandwagon this year is the 16th annual Festival of Flowers. The educational component of the 2009 event is a living vegetable wall. Helen Childers, director of special events at Providence Hospital, says, "The festival will feature the Garden of Eating, showing the urban gardener beautiful new methods of growing vegetables in limited areas. This state-of-the-art technology is called vertical gardening, and it is sweeping the globe! Walls of emerald vegetation will bedeck this exciting festival special event." READY TO DIG When you choose your site, make sure plants will have plenty of drainage, and at least four to six hours of sun per day. If you're planning to grow a full-fledged garden, have the soil tested at the local cooperative extension office. The pH balance of can determine the success or failure. "The big mistake that people make is not having enough lime, and having the pH off," says Allen Eubanks, the president of Eubanks Produce. "Soil here has low pH and high acid. Ideal pH is around 6.5." TILL THE SOIL That means pulverize the soil into fine, crumbly dirt, using a rake, hoe, tiller or plow. Don't do it when the ground is wet. It will form clods, which are difficult to break up and interfere with cultivation. According to Eubanks, another mistake often made is not tilling deep enough for the roots to grow. COMPOST If you're not purchasing ready-made, then organic compost is the way to go. Tree leaves are an excellent source. Incorporate sphagnum peat moss and ground pine bark to improve drainage. Pretty much anything biodegradable will work - grass clippings, dead houseplants, cow or horse manure (no dog or cat poop), kitchen vegetable scraps. You'll need some humus and limestone in the soil, too. FERTILIZE Organic manures improve the soil. However, you must follow an intense organic approach and apply sufficient manures and garden compost. Chemical fertilizers are necessary if you want a heavy crop. Be sure to read the instructions for proper dispersal. Rake the fertilizer into the surface for the best results. PLANT Planting in rows makes the most sense. Water the dirt before sowing, so seeds do not clump or wash away. Sprinkle seeds thinly and evenly, and then shovel the soil to cover. Whether seeds or plants, space according to the package instructions. For tomato plants, stake when planting to avoid root damage later. MAINTENANCE Keep a watchful eye out for the first sign of insects or disease. Control with pesticide, but read the label for timing between last application and harvest. WATER Eubanks suggests consistently watering one foot per week. Those black spots on tomatoes are calcium deficiency from draught. WEED That nasty word! The best way-regularly look for intruders and pull them out by hand. HERB ESSENTIALS Same rules apply as listed above. However, since Mobile summers exceed 90 degrees, it's best to plant in a location for morning sun and afternoon shade. Whether using beds or containers, allow one to four feet diameter for each herb, depending on the plant: Marjoram, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage: 3-4 feet Basil, tarragon, thyme : 2 feet Chives, cilantro, dill, parsley: 1 foot. * For a complete planting and harvesting chart of fruits and veggies, pick up the March issue of Mobile Bay magazine. ALABAMA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION CLASSES March 26 Turf and Weeds April 30 Edible Landscape - Fruits May 28 Edible Landscape - Vegetables Each session will be held at the Jon Archer Agricultural Center 1070 SCHILLINGER ROAD N., 574-8445. FESTIVAL OF FLOWERS MARCH 25-29 TBA: VEGETABLE GARDENING SEMINARS 639-2050, FESTIVALOFFLOWERS.COM RATHER PICK THAN PLOW? I fully intend to grow my own veggies this year. But, knowing myself, I might still pull the old "bad back' card. If you've got a good excuse, then try one of the picking places, the next best thing to your own garden. I hear the strawberries are ripe about now! CHARLIE'S U-PIK Crops available in May. LUCEDALE, MISS. 601-947-9661. EUBANKS PRODUCE, INC. 331 PRODUCE ROAD. LUCEDALE, MISS., 1-800-353-2589. EUBANKSPRODUCE.COM HILLCREST FARM Blueberries, pears, grapes, scuppernong & muscadines, persimmons 30497 HIXSON ROAD, ELBERTA, 962-2500. LYRENE'S FLOWER FARM Blueberries 11689 HIGHWAY 104, FAIRHOPE, 928-0925. F. E. LITTLE Mayhaws, blackberries 20750 MIFLIN ROAD, FOLEY, 943-2548. BEE NATURAL FARM Organically grown blueberries 9711 TWIN BEECH ROAD (HIGHWAY 44E), FAIRHOPE, 928-4311. PERDIDO VINEYARDS Muscadines, scuppernongs 22100 COUNTY ROAD 47, PERDIDO, 937-9463. ALAN NORDEN Muscadine grapes, blueberries 16370 4TH AVE., SILVERHILL, 945-5232. TERRY BURKE Muscadine grapes 24727 COUNTY ROAD 71, ROBERTSDALE, 232-9241. CHICKASABOGUE VINEYARDS Scuppernongs, blueberries 7000 OLD GULFCREST ROAD, CITRONELLE. BETTY'S BERRY FARM Blueberries 3887 DRISKELL LOOP ROAD N., WILMER, 649-1711. BETTYSBERRYFARM.COM